:root{color-scheme:light;--paper:#fcfcfc;--ink:#333;--quiet:#666;--line:#ddd}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:1rem/1.9 'Courier New',Courier,monospace}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:#995019}a:focus-visible{outline:2px solid #995019;outline-offset:5px}img{display:block;max-width:100%;height:auto}.shell{max-width:750px;margin:auto;padding:75px 75px 40px}.site-header{display:flex;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;margin-bottom:83px}.brand{font-size:1rem;line-height:1.2;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:1px;white-space:nowrap}.site-nav{display:flex;gap:22px;line-height:1.4;font-size:1rem;letter-spacing:1px}.site-nav a[aria-current]{font-weight:700;text-decoration:none}.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:24px 18px}.story-card{display:block;min-width:0}.story-card img{aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;width:100%;transition:opacity .18s}.story-card:hover img{opacity:.78}.card-title{display:block;font:400 .875rem/1.6 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:center;margin-top:8px}.site-footer{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:65px;padding-top:20px;font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.8;color:var(--quiet)}.site-footer p{margin:0 0 10px}.site-footer a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-top-nav,.article-bottom-nav{font-size:.875rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap}.article-top-nav{margin-bottom:30px}.article-top-nav a,.article-bottom-nav a{border-bottom:1px solid #aaa}.article-title{text-align:center;border-top:1px solid #999;border-bottom:1px solid #999;padding:38px 0;margin:0 0 40px}.article-title h1{font-size:1.375rem;letter-spacing:1.33px;line-height:1.3;margin:0 0 26px}.article-title .meta{font-size:.875rem;line-height:1.8;margin:0}.article-title .subtitle{font-size:1rem;font-weight:400;margin:24px 0 0;line-height:1.7}.article-body p{margin:0 0 1.7em;overflow-wrap:break-word}.article-body a{text-decoration:underline;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.article-body figure{margin:36px 0}.article-body figure img{width:100%;height:auto}.article-body figcaption{font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--quiet);text-align:center;margin-top:10px}.article-bottom-nav{border-top:1px solid #999;padding-top:24px;margin-top:44px}.publication{font-size:.875rem;margin-bottom:30px;line-height:1.7}.skip{position:fixed;left:16px;top:-100px;background:white;padding:10px;z-index:5}.skip:focus{top:10px}.not-found{text-align:center;padding:70px 0}.not-found a{text-decoration:underline}@media(max-width:650px){.shell{padding:35px 24px}.site-header{margin-bottom:46px;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:24px}.grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:26px 16px}.site-nav{font-size:.9375rem}.article-title{padding:30px 0}.article-top-nav{margin-bottom:24px}.article-body{line-height:1.85}.site-footer{margin-top:45px}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.story-card img{transition:none}}@media print{.site-nav,.article-top-nav,.article-bottom-nav,.site-footer{display:none}.shell{max-width:none;padding:0}.site-header{margin-bottom:30px}.article-body figure{break-inside:avoid}}
.article-body h2,.article-body h3,.article-body h4{font-size:1rem;font-weight:400;line-height:1.9;margin:1.5em 0}.article-body blockquote{margin:1.5em 0;padding-left:24px;border-left:2px solid #bbb;font-style:italic}.article-body hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:35px 0}.route-map{margin:40px 0}.route-map iframe{display:block;width:100%;border:1px solid var(--line);height:500px}.route-map p{font-size:.875rem;margin-top:12px}.nav-label{display:block;font-size:.8125rem;color:var(--quiet)}.article-bottom-nav>a{max-width:46%}.article-bottom-nav .back-index{flex-basis:100%;max-width:100%;margin-top:18px;border:0}.gallery-title{font-size:1.125rem;font-weight:400;margin:0 0 30px}.photo-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:20px;align-items:start}.photo-grid figure{margin:0}.photo-grid img{width:100%;height:auto}.article-top-nav a{max-width:60%;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.publication{overflow-wrap:anywhere}@media(max-width:650px){.route-map iframe{height:400px}.photo-grid{gap:14px}}@media print{.route-map iframe{display:none}}

.contact{text-align:center}.contact h1,.contact p{font:inherit;letter-spacing:normal;margin:0}.contact h1{font-weight:700}.contact a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}

/* Newsletter forms inherit the reading site's type and spacing. */
.newsletter{margin-top:64px;padding-top:30px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.newsletter h1,.newsletter h2{font-size:1rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:normal;margin:0 0 10px;line-height:1.6}.newsletter p{margin:0 0 16px}.newsletter-page{margin-top:0;border-top:0;padding-top:0}.newsletter-form>label{display:block;font-size:.875rem;margin:0 0 6px}.newsletter-fields{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:stretch}.newsletter input,.newsletter button{font:inherit;color:inherit;border:1px solid #aaa;border-radius:0;background:transparent;padding:9px 12px;min-height:44px}.newsletter input[type=email]{width:100%;min-width:0}.newsletter button{cursor:pointer;background:#333;color:#fcfcfc;white-space:nowrap}.newsletter button:hover{background:#555}.newsletter button:disabled{cursor:wait;opacity:.6}.newsletter input:focus-visible,.newsletter button:focus-visible{outline:2px solid #995019;outline-offset:3px}.newsletter-form .newsletter-consent{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:flex-start;margin:16px 0;font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.7}.newsletter-consent input{min-height:0;width:16px;height:16px;margin:3px 0 0;flex-shrink:0;accent-color:#333}.newsletter .newsletter-note{font-size:.75rem;line-height:1.7;color:var(--quiet);margin:0 0 6px}.newsletter .newsletter-message{font-size:.875rem;line-height:1.8;margin:16px 0 0}.newsletter-message:empty{display:none}.newsletter-retry{text-decoration:underline}.newsletter-trap{position:absolute;left:-10000px;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}@media(max-width:430px){.newsletter-fields{flex-direction:column}.newsletter-fields button{align-self:flex-start}}@media print{.newsletter{display:none}}
